I also loved the tamarind bourbon sour.īut the change in format (and cash flow) has allowed Lolita to actually lower its average dish prices and focus on the kind of multi-plate sharing that has finally become the norm in 2014. And while Turney still makes no claims of authenticity - her food is inspired by, rather than dictated by, traditions - her menu has evolved.
There are a few more threads of genuine Mexican flavors that run through the menu of Lolita 2.0, especially with the fresh masa rounds that come off the hand-cranked tortilla press. I do not necessarily prefer this Lolita to many of the affordable taquerias that have sprouted like epazote along Ninth Street south of Washington Avenue. What Lolita does is simply different, built on good ingredients and modern style, with a fresh touch and updated aesthetic for a mainstream audience.
The duck-fat tamale is an instant classic, a husk-wrapped bundle of steamy masa fluff topped with shredded smoked duck leg meat and a mahogany mole rich with ancho peppers and peanuts.Īnd when this kitchen is on, I see the appeal.
